|
Posted
Saturday, Jun 11th 7:37pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 51
|
How many times does this get asked? I am sure there is a FAQ read through somewhere on the site but I can't seem to find it. I was inspired to look after changing the front pads on the BM this morning. I got to wondering what is so great about the Volvo brakes and what Volvo do you get them off anyway?
I mean, it isn't as if the BM 323 is an underbraked car is it? Twin piston opposed calipers grabbing centre vented discs on the front and another set grabbing solid discs at the back. I don't even mind that mine feels under servoed and I have to give them a good old shove. They give plenty of feed back and I can lock up the fronts at well over 100mph in dry conditions. So what are the advantages to having these Volvo brakes? Track day use? Less fade? I have never seen a set (in the flesh or even a picture). I suppose they use the same disc and pad as the original BMW unit.
Anyway, I changed the front pads today and guess what? Well Iupon slackening off the master cylinder top I noticed a lot of fluid on top of the resovoir cap. The wires for the low fluid switch had been stripped of insuluation and the flexible rubber top that forms the lid of the microswitch and keeps the vacuum had been chewed through. SODDING MICE! They're at it again! Now I need to go and buy a new cap for the brake mastercylinder resovoir. They have chewed through so when the fluid gets low the switch won't activate because no vacuum exists in the MC to pull the switch into contact. The chain is complete for disaster as in chewing through the top and ruining the brake fluid level switch they also ensure that air can get to the brake fluid and brake fluid can get out of the MC.
So now I need a new MC top and I need to flush out all the fluid as it will be filled with water due to its hydroscopic nature.
I like little fluffy animals but I am rapidly losing my patience with these nibbling little swines.
I wonder what else they have chewed through? I wouldn't be suprised if I had a catastrophic electrical fire due to the destructive little buggers.
I really am annoyed at them... |
 |
|
|
Posted
Saturday, Jun 11th 7:56pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 433
|
no vacuum needed, just gravity. |
|
|
|
Posted
Saturday, Jun 11th 11:24pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 52
|
Excellent! So it will still work then.Thanks star. All I need to do is cover up the hole and its all good... |
|
|
|
Posted
Sunday, Jun 12th 6:33am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 365
|
The volvo calipers are 4 pistons and the pads have nearly double the swept area of the e21 twin piston calipers. They fit with a little modification to the e21 backing plate and the caliper, with the standard 323i vented disks.
Basically, you get a more positive, firmer pedal with less fade.
If your happy with the standard setup, and you've got no intention of heading to the track, then don't bother. |
|
|
|
Posted
Monday, Jun 13th 1:32am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 53
|
Ooooh but now you have me thinking about 4pot calipers! Track or no I want them now. What model do they come off and what mods do you need to do to the backing plate?
Mmmm, 4 pot calipers... |
|
|
|
Posted
Monday, Jun 13th 3:09pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 144
|
They are from the Volvo 240. Make sure you get the ones that take the vented disc and are made by Girling. The 240 used to have solid discs as well.
Numbers 320029 6210 and 320029 62.8 (one is the left and the other the right, not sure which is which)
This should help:
http://e21.tricord.cjb.net/forum/view.php?view=1547
Picture links don't show in the post but click on the boxes and you will see the image. |
|
|
|
Posted
Monday, Jun 13th 6:28pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 148
|
An important point to remember is that the Volvo calipers (I've been told) will not fit under stock 13" wheels, you'll need larger wheels, but I don't know if you can get away with 14" or if you need 15". It's the thing stopping me from doing the swap at this point because I'm not sure when I'll be able to upgrade my wheels. |
|
|
|
Posted
Monday, Jun 13th 8:08pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 1325
|
get a set of stock 13 inch steel wheels. The Girling calipers fit fine under these wheels. |
|
|
|
Posted
Monday, Jun 13th 9:47pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 77
|
At least in the US, vented rotor Girling calipers seem to be most common on 240 turbo and station wagon models.
Haven't had the opportunity to do the research yet, but supposedly, there's a 4 piston Porsche aluminum caliper that's interchangeable with the Volvo unit as well - no idea what year/model it's from, though..... |
|
|
|
Posted
Wednesday, Jun 15th 11:50pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 1329
|
it is prob the same girling Volvo caliper but in Aluminum
|
|
|
|
Posted
Thursday, Jun 16th 8:51pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 565
|
Alfa's also had an aluminium caliper which would be a nice substite for the rear calipers. |
|
|
|
Posted
Monday, Aug 15th 3:40pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 158
|
Just did mine!
Girling Caliper - Left - cleaned up, right - as supplied, new old stock.
Painting WIP
Mounted - Wheels off
Mounted - Wheels on
Calipers' paintwork need to be touched up. Will do when I have time.
Rear Disc -
Rear Calipers - Wheel mounted
 |
|
|
|
Posted
Monday, Aug 15th 9:37pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 524
|
What about the 'brake pad wear' sensor? |
|
|
|
Posted
Monday, Aug 15th 9:38pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 490
|
If you don't have pets around, you should spread some poison under where you park the car.
If there are pet concerns, try putting some mothballs under the hood -- tie them up in little mesh bags or the like. Apparently rodents don't like the smell.
Tony |
|
|
|
Posted
Tuesday, Aug 16th 1:50am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 42
|
i had my discs machined about a week ago, i was told that not only are my calipers volvo but so are my discs. aparently the holes have been redrilled to fit e21. weird
cheers james |
|
|
|
Posted
Tuesday, Aug 16th 5:10am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 159
|
| kpeters wrote: | | What about the 'brake pad wear' sensor? |
For the moment they are tied to the suspension. I regularly inspect my pads for wear and normally change by the time its about 3mm left.
|
|
|
|
Posted
Tuesday, Aug 16th 5:13am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 526
|
Mine used to be that way  |
|
|
|
Posted
Tuesday, Aug 16th 5:14am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 160
|
| mcquej wrote: | i had my discs machined about a week ago, i was told that not only are my calipers volvo but so are my discs. aparently the holes have been redrilled to fit e21. weird
cheers james |
The Volvo calipers are made by Girling. Was there any modification done to the calipers, i.e., the slotting of the mounting holes? Or was it maintained as standard mounting?
Does the re-drilling of the brake disc impact the balancing?
Would like to see some pics, if you have them.
Thanks
|
|
|
|
Posted
Tuesday, Aug 16th 2:48pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 391
|
Hi Ichiwan
Just wondering- in your photo have you slotted the front calipers to suit the e21 rotors and added some of redmist's patented 'big ass washers' or are they standard- just thinking that if they are standard, then I don't think I'l bother slotting mine....
I'll have to fit mine soon 'cos my brakes are cactus (bought new rear disks and calipers for the rear the other day and the master cylinder is stuffed)- may as well fit the Volvos while I'm at it. |
|
|
|
Posted
Tuesday, Aug 16th 6:00pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 717
|
Check wires higher up on the engine bay. Typically these rodents are looking for warmth at night.....and crawl up higher where the heat collects.
I bet that you have other wires that have been bitten through.
|
|
|
|
Posted
Wednesday, Aug 17th 4:57pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 161
|
| aussie323i wrote: | Hi Ichiwan
Just wondering- in your photo have you slotted the front calipers to suit the e21 rotors and added some of redmist's patented 'big ass washers' or are they standard- just thinking that if they are standard, then I don't think I'l bother slotting mine....
I'll have to fit mine soon 'cos my brakes are cactus (bought new rear disks and calipers for the rear the other day and the master cylinder is stuffed)- may as well fit the Volvos while I'm at it. |
The caliper mounting holes have been slotted and, yes, the "big ass washer" is there too. Both steps needed to get the calipers to cover more of the disc. Otherwise, there is a significant overhang, about 7-8mm, if I remember correctly.
What's more, you will also need to trim the backing plate for the larger caliper to fit.
I suppose, if you did not want to slot the calipers, you could try to find larger discs that could fit. mquej said that his had the volvo discs which were re-drilled. However, not sure what else needs to be done (rebalancing the disc?)
|
|
|
|
Posted
Saturday, Aug 20th 11:15pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 1
|
Here are some pics of the conversion I did on my car. It was fairly straight forward, but the calipers I bought overhung the rotors by exactly 7mm, not the 3mm that I often see posted. I had to slot them to get them down to 1mm overhang (I used a carbide bit and die grinder), and also used 1.5mm washers to center the calipers on the rotor. I actually went to the hardware store with calipers (measuring calipers) and measured washers to make sure I had all the same thickness (washers tolerances aren't too tight). You also have to trim the backing plate to get the calipers to fit. I bought my calipers brand new for about $60 each at http://fcpgroton.com/volvo240brake.htm, but prices have gone up since then. I bought part #5002028X and 5002029X, a hardware kit, and metal master pads.
Unslotted caliper with 7mm overhang.
Slotted holes.
Calipers mounted after slotting the holes, only 1mm overhang now.  This put the caliper so far back that i had to grind a little material off of the front strut where the caliper mounting bolt holes are for brake pad clearance. BTW, I have the clips installed backwards in the pic, they should be over the metal backing plate on the pads.
I decided to use the E21 master cylinder for now because I already had a new one. I used a metric brake "T", bought mine from a VW supplier, but its the exact same "T" that is used in the rear brake circuit. Also, If you are doing a big front brake swap and a rear disk conversion, you should consider an adjustable proportioning valve. I used a Wilwood valve (bought from summitracing.com) pretty cheap, and looks good too. I had to use a combination of metic and SAE bubble and inverted bubble flares to adapt it into the system. Summit's wilwood valve is SAE, but I have read that Ireland Engineering sells a metric version.
Front brake line routing. I bought brake metric brake lines at Autozone for a few bucks (along with their rent-a-tool cutter and flare kit) and bent my lines by hand. Despite the single circuit split to 2, the brake pedal feel isn't too soft for my tastes. An E12 cylinder is the best way to go though.
Proportioning valve placement. A great spot for easy adjustment. Or you can run the line up into the passenger compartment for in car adjustment.
I removed and bypassed the stock proportioning valve with a female-female brake line connector.
Rear disks. Stock E21 323i. 
|
|
|
|
Posted
Sunday, Aug 21st 12:17am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 669
|
Nice detail work. |
|
|
