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Posted
Friday, Feb 10th 10:55am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 100
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So in the past few days i was all over the internet and actually i am more confused then i was before 
i have a 2.7 from 10/86 525e e28 england model, with the steering wheel on the right
i read that tgey are 5 diferent eta engines 
what head do i nead for this engine? the head from it is 200 style head, some people say the 731 head is better, some says the 885 head is better 
so please help  before searching the net I thought that they are just 2 models of 2.7, eta who has the 200 style head and works very well with the 731 head w/ 323i cam and the super eta who has the 885 head witch performs well with the 885 325i '90 head who has larger sferical combustion chambers.
Thanks a lot for your input.
\\Gabi.
EDIT : can i keep my existing motronic 1.0 for the stroker config? some people say that i can use the early 325i ECU on the eta wire harnes
it's kinda hard to find motronic 1.3 in here  |
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Posted
Friday, Feb 10th 4:52pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 1124
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Ah. Here we go again.
885 "I" Best> Good 731 > ok 200 "eta" "e21 323i" series head.
| jrcook320 wrote: |
E21 323i - M20B23 - 2.3L m20 (or m60) with K-jet (or CIS) fuel injection
E30 325i and is - M20B25 - 2.5L with L-jet and later motronic EFI, 731 or 885 head (depending on year)
E30 325e and es - M20B27 - 2.7L eta (efficiency) with L-jet EFI, different head with smaller ports, similar to 323i head but weaker valve springs and smaller cam with fewer bearings (for less friction). High Torque low rever. |
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Posted
Friday, Feb 10th 7:15pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 651
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my opinion:
1) use a low compression (9:1) eta bottom end and deck the block .030" (brings squish down and compression up a bit- to about 9.6:1) and use a 731 casting head
2) use a euro high compression (11:1?) eta bottom end and a 731 casting head
3) use a super-eta bottom end and an 885 casting head
In any of the above cases use an "i" car cam and valve springs.
Any fuel injection you can get your hands on is fine as long as the intake matches the cylinder head and isn't a low-revving eta ecu.
jamie |
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Posted
Friday, Feb 10th 7:19pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 101
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ok. so how can i find at what kind of eta i`m looking at?
on the mtal plate under the vin said "27 6E B" |
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Posted
Friday, Feb 10th 7:32pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 8
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pistons are usefull to tell what motor you have, so is the year stamped into the block.
If you keep the existing eta pistons the 885 (325i) head is a waste of time. Better of sticking with the smaller chamber, 731 or 200 head from the 323i's. That way you will keep the stock compression ratio of your bottom end.
The 731 has a slight advantage over the E21 323i's 200 head in that it has larger inlet ports. Thats about the only real difference.
The 200 head from the eta is useless, cut it up and use it for paperweights 
You are right though, there are 5 (or was it 6?) different eta engines in the 5 series, various compression ratios and injection systems are used. The 3 series only really has 2.
All the eta's but the super eta motors you will find in some late model 3 and 5 series cars have the 200 head (the super eta runs an 885 head).
The super eta works well with the 885 head because it has pistons designed to work with the chamber shape of the 885 casting. This is the same reason the 731 head works with the rest of the eta range, it is the same chamber design as the stock eta head.
No, the eta's system is useless, you are rev limited by the ecu and the fuel map just does not support the stroker motor very well (it simply wasnt designed to). You can upgrade to the 325i unit by using the 325i's ecu and splicing your loom or swapping to a complete 325i item, otherwise the only alternative is to use the LE-jetronic system from the E30 323i. |
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Posted
Friday, Feb 10th 7:42pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 102
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Thanks a lot!
525e 1983-1985 276EA 2693(2693) 92 125
525e 1985-1987 276KA 2693(2674) 90 122
525e 1986-1987 276EA 2693(2674) 95 129
525e 1981-1984 276EB 2693(2674) 95 129
these are 4 versions of the eta
tomorow i`l search for any production year from the block
the VIN : WBADB620201865555
i was thinking that i can swap a 325i motronic 1.0/1.1 ecu and use the existing harness
Bump for a real stroker topic |
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Posted
Friday, Feb 10th 8:02pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 103
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| Gabi_323i wrote: | ok. so how can i find at what kind of eta i`m looking at?
on the mtal plate under the vin said "27 6E B" |
525e 1981-1984 276EB 2693(2674) 95 129
how could that happend?
the car is 10/86 .... in the etk it says that 276EB was used from 09/85 and the 276KA was used until 12/86, the car had 2 middle silencer, i don`t know if the first one was the cat ....
http://e21.tricord.be/members/Gabi_323i/capture13.JPG
if on the metal plate bolted on the engine bay there was mentioned 276EB i think thats it, right? the 129HP version
EDIT : the exhaust looked exactly like this
So it's the 276EB version |
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Posted
Saturday, Feb 11th 9:57am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 1585
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Gabi, show us the piston tops and this will tell you the compression ratio.
Personal opinion: go with the 731 head as it will match the 525e pistons better. With the 885 you will have to use the 2.5l pistons in order to match the 885 head. Anything else will not take advantage of the squish/flow/compression properties of the 2.5l piston. Regardless of what the know-it-all shit-talking-fuckers say. Let me know if you need an early 325i motronic , just pay for the shipping to you. |
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Posted
Sunday, Feb 12th 9:07am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 9
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you cant use the same loom as the plugs/wiring are different. |
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Posted
Sunday, Feb 12th 11:28pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 104
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ok, thanks
i live in Romania, near ukraine, hungary
where are you from? any ideea of the shipping cost? i never shipped, received anything outside the country thats why i ask
thanks a lot RDAvena, nice gesture  |
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Posted
Monday, Feb 13th 3:52am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 10
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you will want the trigger wheel too and possibly the distributor, so dont forget that |
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Posted
Monday, Feb 20th 9:50am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 105
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news 
i got a harness, trigger wheel, cilinder identificator, pulse sensor from e34 525i M20 motronic 1.3, i`m so happy |
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Posted
Monday, Feb 20th 3:50pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 12
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as long as they are being handed out... ill take 2 thanks  |
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Posted
Wednesday, Mar 8th 11:14am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 108
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ok, so my car is running, at last
stock m20b27 276EB engine with motronic 1.3 from early e34 2.5i M20, 04/79 323i tranny, 11/80 323i Auto diff (open i think) and the ecu is from 88 325e E30 USA 0 261 200 154 and runs great i have a 731 complete head in my trunk just wainting to be on the engine i have 2 323i E21 engines, should i use E21 camshaft? the 731 head i think is out of a E30 320i i will use the matching 731 manifold with .... what injectors? 2.5i? the ecu will be #173 unit i think
thanks!
\\Gabi. |
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Posted
Thursday, Mar 9th 3:01am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 347
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Hey Great!
Got some pics with motronics distributor and manifold, and location of the ECU? Do u change the radiator?
regards,
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Posted
Thursday, Mar 9th 11:27am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 110
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i didnt`t change the radiator
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Posted
Thursday, Jan 18th 10:26pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 129
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ok, so last night my timming belt slipped and one valve broke and made a big hole in one piston
i bought 6 2.5 pistons, will they fit ok with the 2.7 crank and rods? i have the 2.5 head too use with them |
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Posted
Friday, Jan 19th 1:55am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 1022
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super eta block, "I" head, turbo. Cheap, very fast fun.
Just ceramic coat the tops of the pistons. |
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Posted
Friday, Jan 19th 6:06am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 17
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2.5 pistons can't be used with the 2.7 crank because they will either hit the head (with 135mm 'i' rods) or have low compression (with 130mm 'e' rods).
Of course if you add a turbo then low compression might not be a problem  |
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Posted
Friday, Jan 19th 6:15pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 130
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i want to go turbo, how low will the comp be? |
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Posted
Saturday, Jan 20th 6:01am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 18
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How low? depends on what the comp ratio is of the 2.5 pistons you bought.
If they are from 8.8:1 M20B25 then the answer is:
1+81mm/((75mm/(8.8-1))-3mm+5mm)
=8.0
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Posted
Saturday, Jan 20th 11:03am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 131
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yes they are 8.8:1 pistons, i'm very confused some people say that the cr will be 7.4:1, some 7.9:1, 8.3:1, and you 8.0:1 
anyway, what do you think should i go with this setup? |
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Posted
Saturday, Jan 20th 1:08pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 77
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A bit offtopic:
How block clearance should be made to adapt longer throw crank. The problem is about conrods, they bumps into lower part of cylinder.
Any ideas, pictures? |
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Posted
Saturday, Jan 20th 1:16pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 430
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The piston & rods are okay you deck the block (skim appox 2mm) of the top to get the compression ratio back.
Rods hiting the block is od what crank are you using
Jason |
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Posted
Saturday, Jan 20th 6:18pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 79
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going to use 88mm crank from M57B30 turbodiesel. Cutting the conrod shoulders will shorten the screws and threads, because threads are on the end of the screw its risky. MetricMechanic warns, that using long throw cranks will require machining the block for clearance issues, but it didn't say what exactly needs to be modified (they uses even longer 89,6mm cranks) |
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Posted
Saturday, Jan 20th 6:35pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 431
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Hi
I have only seen this on a few ford pinto stokers were the just grind a notch either side at the bottom of the cyliners to clear the conrods. but thes notches are below the lowest point of the piston skirts
The problem might be that some cranks from the m 50 series of engins have larger bearings so if it the head of the bolts touching rather than the conrod sides then you may need an crank with smaller bearings.
Jason |
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Posted
Saturday, Jan 20th 6:42pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 80
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not the bolt head, but bolt end with some conrod metal should be milled off to pass that critical point in the block. I think, that 8mm of thread should be dangerous...your thoughts plz
| Jason_323i wrote: | Hi
I have only seen this on a few ford pinto stokers were the just grind a notch either side at the bottom of the cyliners to clear the conrods. but thes notches are below the lowest point of the piston skirts
The problem might be that some cranks from the m 50 series of engins have larger bearings so if it the head of the bolts touching rather than the conrod sides then you may need an crank with smaller bearings.
Jason |
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Posted
Saturday, Jan 20th 7:36pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 432
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HI
I would relive the block and if possibe shorten the bolt but stil leave 2-3 mm showing
Jason |
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Posted
Monday, Aug 20th 4:04pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 134
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the motor is working again, 175km for now running in procedure recomandation?
the engine is a 2.7 block with 10:2 pistons and 2.5 head, e21 2.3 camshaft and 2.5 manifold, injectors, ecu, afm etc
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Posted
Tuesday, Aug 21st 1:58pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 4
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i've radiator from e30 325i 86' (new)
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Posted
Tuesday, Aug 21st 2:31pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 135
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i have the same radiator, but i need the top hose, is very dificult to source one even new |
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Posted
Wednesday, Aug 22nd 4:58am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 462
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The radiator from which model, because, e30 325 radiator is very wide compare to e21 radiator???? |
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Posted
Wednesday, Aug 22nd 11:25am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 136
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this is a 325i radiator, a post facelift i think, 85-87
RealOEM |
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Posted
Wednesday, Aug 22nd 4:30pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 463
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interesting! do you have to cut anything to mount? it seems like direct bolt on mounting? |
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Posted
Thursday, Aug 23rd 3:00am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 137
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you need to cut the top part of the radiator mounting bracket to clear the hood and maybe bend or cut a little metal for the top hose to clear the chassis
picture |
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Posted
Friday, Aug 24th 3:04am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 464
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alright. I suppose this radiator gives better cooling than standard e21?  |
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Posted
Monday, Oct 29th 10:54am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 139
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no, i don't think so it's the same size radiator but with the moved top hose to clear the distribuitor ! managed to source a top hose
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Posted
Friday, Feb 22nd 2:52pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 112
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Since my race season is over, I pulled my engine out and disassembled everything - conrods are just fine. BTW, engine produced 244hp at crank naturaly aspirated.
| Jason_323i wrote: | HI
I would relive the block and if possibe shorten the bolt but stil leave 2-3 mm showing
Jason |
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Posted
Saturday, Feb 23rd 5:50am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 1346
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| Phasma wrote: | Since my race season is over, I pulled my engine out and disassembled everything - conrods are just fine. BTW, engine produced 244hp at crank naturaly aspirated.
| Jason_323i wrote: | HI
I would relive the block and if possibe shorten the bolt but stil leave 2-3 mm showing
Jason |
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Details of your engine build again please? I must have spaced it. I am using custom 85mm Weisco Pistons, S50 86mm crank, *S50 rods, ported and polished 885 head, plus 1 ferrara valves, and custom rockers with a 288 cam and 19lb injectors. I have not put the engine together yet but the 2.9 m20 will be in my 323i this summer. |
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Posted
Tuesday, Mar 4th 10:36pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 113
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M57D30 crank, 130mm max lightened rods, rebuilt and lightened 2.5i pistons (12:1), lightened schrick 288 cam, lightened valves, 885 ported&polished head, 11 lbs flywheel, oil squirter taped 2.5 block, lightened water pump, lightened itermediate shaft, gogleg box, 3.91LSD. |
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Posted
Wednesday, Mar 5th 10:15pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 114
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BTW, anybody has ready-to-use piston design for 89.6mm crank + 135mm rods? JE pistons require tons of measurements and parameters to build appropriate piston set. |
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Posted
Thursday, Mar 6th 4:54am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 1347
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| Phasma wrote: | | BTW, anybody has ready-to-use piston design for 89.6mm crank + 135mm rods? JE pistons require tons of measurements and parameters to build appropriate piston set. |
What is the diameter of the M57D30 crank, and what is the displacement of the bottom end?
If you call or email Metric Mechanic he can quote you the pistons. But I am pretty sure this 89.6 S52 crank requires custom rods. Thats why i used the S50 86 mm crank, and s50 rods. |
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Posted
Friday, Dec 19th 10:42pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 116
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M57D30 uses all the same mounting diameters as M20/M50, just the crank nose is shorter and has 4 screw holes instead of 1 big - needs additional fabrication. Bottom end results in 2996.2 cc. It made 244Hp on wheels and 306nm! |
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