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Posted
Tuesday, Nov 28th 4:40am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 23
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Hi all,
I just finished replacing many cooling system parts,
my Radiator
my water pump
my thermostat(i put a 72c in)
Cooling hose(from thermostat to i dont know where(the one bavauto sells for a 323i 1982)
Fanclutch and Fan itself
And yet the other day, i was crossing the border in tecate, and my car is again overheating, reaching the 3/4 mark, and the idle begins to waver if i forget to rev the engine and bring it back to normal temp.
Is this normal?
If so, I want to install an electric fan to go along with my normal fan clutch fan, and put it infront of the radiator.
?What would the best fan be of this type?
where could i buy it?
how much?
How much clearance do i have in front of the radiator to put a fan?
Most fans are 3" thick, is that too big?
I have the 6cil 2.3 323i from 1982.
Please help me, I hate overheating!
Thanks again for all your help in the past all!
-G
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Posted
Tuesday, Nov 28th 7:01pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 1045
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I run a Hayden 14" on my 323 with no engine driven rad fan. No problems. I can't remember the thickness but I believe there is a few threads here on the subject of my conversion. Search Hayden and fan. I'll see if I can dig up some pics.
Bruce |
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Posted
Thursday, Nov 30th 1:36am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 546
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hmmm- I have a 72C thermostat, and my car runs on 1/4- 1/3 on the guage all the time. Only in very extreme conditions does it get up to half.
I only have a pusher fan infront of the radiator too (although being an early car, I have a bigger radiator than the later cars with 3 cores).
When I had problems like yours, it turned out to be the head. (Hopefully this is not the case for you!) |
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Posted
Thursday, Nov 30th 2:18am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 266
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The first thing I think of when I hear about overheating is whether the cooling system was properly bled. This was a problem for me when I first got my car.
At the moment I have a small leak that I have yet to track down that's causing me the same problem. Check these two first and then follow the other advice. |
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Posted
Thursday, Nov 30th 2:30am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 51
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not that i drive my 323i much anymore (thank you speed camera's) but mine sits at 1/2 and when idleing in traffic around 3/4. it has had some work to the cooling system done to it before i purchased it (fan clutch etc). but i want to put in a 72c thermostat (if it doesn't already have one)so:
1) where does the thermostat sit in engine bay? (if someone could post a photo that would be great)
2) how can i find out if it already has one? (i.e where do i look on the thermostat)
3) if it doesn't, where can i get one?
I know the basics when it comes to mechanics, i just dont know the in's and out's of a chooks b*t(i leave that to my mechanic) |
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Posted
Thursday, Nov 30th 7:18am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 24
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pjs323i you probably want to put in a new fan clutch rather than a new thermostat, although both would be best. I am finding now that a 72 thermostat really didnt solve my problem, it just made it so my car runs cooler most of the time, but it still overheats in the same way. As someone posted above, I am afraid its my head, but;
I think i may have installed a new fan clutch that was defective, because I put a map in it from my glove box after i headed it up in the following manner
drove to the market, back, drove home, turned off car, turned it back on to chek with map.
The map stoped the fan,,,, soo although i have a 10inch fan on the way, i think i will have to repalcce the fan-clutch again, i will in the end have a normal mechanical fan, and a 10 inch pusher.
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Posted
Thursday, Nov 30th 7:24am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 25
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The thermostat is right in front of the motor, easier too access from the drivers side(USA) of the car. If looking from the drivers side of the car, its where the cooling hose highest and closest to you connects into. There will be 3 bolts that you will need a rachet to get to, 10mm i believe, and then it will come right off. It is very important to bleed you system correctly after taking this out(something I suck at, I hate bleeding my system)
Heres a link on how to bleed,
http://www.bmw320i.com/library/howto/bleedcoolingsystem.htm
heres a pic of where the thermostat is,
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=1831&mospid=47174&btnr=11_0648&hg=11&fg=35 |
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Posted
Thursday, Nov 30th 8:21am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 267
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| g323 wrote: | | The map stoped the fan,,,, soo although i have a 10inch fan on the way, i think i will have to repalcce the fan-clutch again, i will in the end have a normal mechanical fan, and a 10 inch pusher. |
It's a thermostatically controlled clutch, so sometimes it spins freely and sometimes it's almost a solid connection. You can hear this at idle when the engine is warm. It will definitely be sucking more air, sounding like a vacuum cleaner and when it's cooler the fan slips causing less noise. I always hear it cycling in hot weather. |
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Posted
Thursday, Nov 30th 8:27am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 26
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I've never heard that sound, ill check again, but i think my fan is out
-grant |
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Posted
Thursday, Dec 7th 9:18am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 33
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So i just installed my fan, its a 10inch 1250cfm fan. Should that be enough to take off the fanclutch? Im scared to try! |
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Posted
Friday, Dec 8th 8:54am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 549
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I'd run both for now... I had a 12 inch bosch before the 16 inch which was from a Mercedes. It didn't do the job... it did seem to blow a lot of air, but no where near as much as the 16 inch at full speed  |
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Posted
Friday, Dec 8th 3:32pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 967
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10 inches may not be enough. You can take off the fan clutch fan and see how hot the car gets. Keep an eye on the temp guage.
What are you using to control the fan?
jamie |
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Posted
Friday, Dec 8th 5:27pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 37
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Ive got a torqflo 733647 controler(little screw to adjust the temp setting, comes on 20 degrees(F) hotter than turns off at, ive got it adjusted right now so that it only comes on after a long idle, and turns off fastest when i turn off the car.
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Posted
Friday, Dec 8th 7:08pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 1059
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The 14" does fine here in Hotlanta in the summer. I would be suspect of the 10" on a hot day in traffic.
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Posted
Monday, Dec 11th 12:44am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 447
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Hi,
I customed-made my radiator with 3-layer copper cooling core, but with casing matching the Behr. It also equipped with aftermarket temp switch at bottom so i can use cheaper and easier to get temp switch which turn on aux fan and kick in at a little bit after half with a/cond switched on.
Why i do that? Because i simply looking the size of the radiator in e30 and e34 with M20 engine... the are huge relatively speaking..
It is now cooling better.. |
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Posted
Monday, Dec 11th 12:46pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 125
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I have an early 323 which has the electric fan in front of the radiator, when idling it creeps up to about 2/3rds but then the fan kicks in and bring it back down to 1/2. It used to get to about 3/4, but I put a new radiator in and it still did it, then I opened the drain plug on the block and ran water through it for about 45 minutes. You would be amazed at all the crap that came out of it! I flushed it without the drain plug out, and it ran clear in about 5 minutes. With the drain plug out it took about 30 minutes for it to run clear. The water galleries seem to be able to hold an unbelivable amount of crud! So my advice is to give it a really good flush through with a good flow of clean water! |
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