melloh |
Posted
Thursday, Nov 30th 1:46am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Member Post nr. 454 California, USA (San Jose) 1980 320is, 1991 318is |
The part in question is #3 here http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=1731&mospid=47168&btnr=13_0119&hg=13&fg=15
For the life of me, I cannot get the sucker back in! I had taken it out to check for vacuum leaks and to replace preventatively... I'm regretting that decision now!!!
Any advice on getting the _ucker in? I tried heating it up so that its nice an malliable - helped, but still couldn't do it. It looks like the hardest part is the larger lower openning. Are there things I can take out relatively easy (IE: wont cause more headaches later) to help? If not, I'm gonna just tow it and pay some poor mechanic to do it...
Thanks in advance! |
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Greg323i |
Posted
Thursday, Nov 30th 2:13am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Member Post nr. 265 Melbourne, Australia 1982 Hennaröt 323i |
The pain in the ass! Try using some liquid soap and that should make things a lot easier. Also, put the clamps on after you have the boot on, unscrew them all the way and put them back on.
I've heard people suggest Vaseline but I think that might attack the rubber because it's petroleum based.
Patience and perserverance are the key. |
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velocewest |
Posted
Thursday, Nov 30th 3:12am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Member Post nr. 550 Oregon USA e9, e12x2, no E21? |
If you remove the metal strut from the intake manifold, and take the mounting nuts off the fuel distributor so you can move it, you get more room to work. I just put one back on last weekend on a cold, rainy day, and didn't feel like taking things a part. It takes a combination of finesse and brute force to do it that way...
Tony |
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myersport |
Posted
Thursday, Nov 30th 3:15am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Member Post nr. 184 east tennessee '82 320iS. '91 327iC |
This is my FAVORITE job on the 1.8!!Lube is important. I use a silicone spray type--it won't harm the rubber. Like Greg said, remove the clamps. The airflow body is mounted using 3 rubber mounts. Loosen all three mounts.The rear one at the engine bracket only needs to be loosened, as the mount will slide out towards you and alow the air flow meter to drop down slightly. Slide the boot on the air flom meter first, and then spin it into position under the throttle body. Use a long thin flathead screwdriver or an L-shaped hook tool to CAREFULLY work the boot onto the throttle body as you apply upward pressure to move the airflow meter into place and slide the rear mount into position on its bracket. This is the easiest way I have found to do this. You may need to remove the steel manifold support bracket for this, but I don't recall.
--Dennis |
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wharthog |
Posted
Friday, Dec 1st 9:42am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Member Post nr. 101 SF Bay,California, USA 1982 323i, , R1150RT |
one of the many reasons I hated working on E21s with M10s when I was wrenching. anyone ever do a heater valve on an E21? I used to glue one of the srews to my finger to get it started... |
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melloh |
Posted
Friday, Dec 1st 1:16pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Member Post nr. 455 California, USA (San Jose) 1980 320is, 1991 318is |
Thank you, gent's. The details help a lot. When the school workload dissipates again, I'll give it a look to see if I can identify the rubber mounts and brakets identified. Renewed hope is good! |
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melloh |
Posted
Thursday, Dec 14th 4:41am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Member Post nr. 457 California, USA (San Jose) 1980 320is, 1991 318is |
Finals are over..WOO HOO! So I took a dive under the hood and found 2 small (10mm) bolts (w/ rubber washer/bushing?) on the front part of the assembly (looks like it bolts to the alt bracket?). Loosened those up till almost off, but it seems to be held down by something underneath and I could not find the source. I was tempted to just yank it loose, but am afraid of breaking something. W/ those 2 nuts, where else it the afm held down? I've tried looking for images on realoem and my manuals, but couldnt find anything useful. |
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myersport |
Posted
Thursday, Dec 14th 4:58am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Member Post nr. 184 east tennessee '82 320iS. '91 327iC |
There is another mount at the back side, opposite the front two and bolted to the engine mount bracket. It is just like the front mounts.
--Dennis |
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melloh |
Posted
Sunday, Dec 17th 9:37am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Member Post nr. 458 California, USA (San Jose) 1980 320is, 1991 318is |
Thank you Dennis. Found it and unbolted it. So it's pretty much free floating in there, but I just can't get it to come out enough to get a real angle on it. There seem to be a few thing intruding like the dipstick tube and between the AFM and the block there is a wire attached to a hose. I have a strong dislike for this type of wire plug b/c they're a PITA to remove. Every time I've unplugged one, I've cracked the plastic.
The part that wont get on is the portion of the boot closest to the head/block.
I'm thinking of warming up the boot and stretching it out a bit (Using a hose clamp inside the opening and stretch it like you would leather shoes). Bad idea? I figure it would eventuall shrink back enough over time, esp w/ the clamp squeezing it when it's back on. I can't think of anything else besides removing more stuff, which will only cause more work in the end?
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Remuxer |
Posted
Saturday, Dec 23rd 6:26pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Member Post nr. 7 Atlanta GA USA 83 320i |
I experienced the same difficulty, I found that the best lubricant for this task was alcohol -about 5 beers later I finally got that sucker on. |
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melloh |
Posted
Sunday, Feb 4th 1:29am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Member Post nr. 467 California, USA (San Jose) 1980 320is, 1991 318is |
VICTORY IS MINE!!!!!!!!!
Just thought I'd share
I spent a few days using the metal hose clamp to slowly stretch out the openning in the oven @ 200-250 degrees. (I had to turn the clamp inside out so that it would stretch evenly.) Lubed it up today (while boot still warm and pliable) and man alive.. it just slid right on! Now, I just need to reattach all the hoses and the other stuff I disconnected. But, at least the hard part is over (for now). |
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