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Posted
Wednesday, Dec 27th 6:16am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 6
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Hey all,
I have just been on the phone to a few different clutch suppliers and I very scared!!!! There quoting me between $600AUD-$850AUD for a new standard (not sports or heavyduty) clutch kit....Is there anyone that can get them at a more realistic price?? What do people pay for them in this forum??? It's for a 1981 323i 5 speed......Please help me as I don't really want to pay $600 for a clutch kit let alone $850....Oh this is around $470USD-$670USD |
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Posted
Wednesday, Dec 27th 6:36am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 551
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just ring a normal clutch place, not a 'euro' parts supplier.
The last clutch plate I got was $90 for a SACHS brand (made in Germany in any case).
I didn't need to replace the pressure plate which is probably where most of your cost is. Depends if yours is still ok I guess.
if all else fails... Walloth and Nesch have kits for $139 euro plus $100 euro deposit. You'll have to pay shipping too, but could be a good way to go.
http://www.wallothnesch.com/e/frameoffer.htm
Good Luck |
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Posted
Wednesday, Dec 27th 6:57am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 7
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Thanks heaps...I'm going to look into that...
Matt |
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Posted
Wednesday, Dec 27th 8:21am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 60
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do you really need the kit? Take it apart and get just the parts you need |
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Posted
Wednesday, Dec 27th 2:22pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 8
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I'm unsure just at this moment as I dont pick the car up until Saturday (30/12)....But the guy who I'm buying it off say's the clutch is gone to the point that I can't drive it...e.i towtruck/car-trailer to get it home....I will get it in the air between Saturday and Tuesday and start droping things out of her....Then I will know where to go I suppose...Got a new quote for $469AUD from AutoBarn near me....It's an Exedy standard item...For the kit e.i Clutch plate, Pressure plate and Thrust( Throw-out) bearing....Better than $850 for a pbr Standard clutch kit hey??? |
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Posted
Thursday, Dec 28th 12:59am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 51
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even talk to BMW themselves. I got a rack-end and tierod kit for both sides for $500, thats not bad considering it was going to cost me $300 just for the steering rack end's.Parts in Australia for e21's are rare and espensive  |
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Posted
Thursday, Dec 28th 2:47am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 43
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pjs323i i second wat u said
having a donar car is soo handy though! |
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Posted
Thursday, Dec 28th 3:01am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 12
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i can get most e21 parts iam in sydney australia and i have lots of spair parts
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Posted
Thursday, Dec 28th 11:38pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 51
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yes arnz it is ever so handy...i'd love one but i dont have the space  Well parts would probably be a little more popular in Sydney but in canberra, you'd be lucky to find one on the road let alone at the wreckers, infact there are only 4 that i know of in canberra. |
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Posted
Friday, Dec 29th 4:11am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 9
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Genuine BMW clutch kit's $574.60...Not to bad considering......I know what you guys mean about part's being expensive, (try $289.50 for a new indicator stalk-BMW Genuine)& ($125.40 for a new Hazard light button-Also BMW Genuine), but there's this really good BMW wrecker's in Mornington Penninsula, they have it all  |
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Posted
Friday, Dec 29th 6:32am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 276
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Penisula BM? There's also BM's 'R' Us in Thomastown, Volv-Wreck in Mitcham and BM Spares in Dandenong. |
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Posted
Saturday, Dec 30th 9:09am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 16
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Yeah I spoke to BM spares and they want $574.60 for a BMW Genuine, he's getting back to me on Wednesday (3/1/07) with prices from the wholesalers, he get's his parts from wholesaler's and sell's them at good price's, He said he with get me a much better price than that!!! So I'm waiting....Oh yeah I actually picked the car up today!!!!!! YAY!!!! I'll post more pic's up soon.... |
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Posted
Saturday, Dec 30th 10:50am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 51
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$125.40 for a hazard light switch??? i just paid $93.60 for one from BMW (the guy there was amazed that someone came in for an e21 part  ) I just got sick of going to wreckers and having them break 3 weeks later, so i got a new one. Have you looked at a heavy duty clutch?? it might be worth it especially if you plan to modify the engine... |
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Posted
Saturday, Dec 30th 4:23pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 19
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Yeah I can get a Exedy Sports-tuff Heavy Duty clutch for $700- at Allied Brake and Clutch in Cranbourne, they said it would take a day to make it up....(I take it that it's not a 'in-demand' part) They'll do me a stock clutch for $487-, It's really a toss-up of what to do because the engine in my car is UBER-CLEAN!!! Gold as Gold can get for oil, It has a really lumpy idle(sounds like a damn rotary) and as you can see from the pic's on my page the engine bay is so clean I could eat off it, that pic is of what it looked like BEFORE I touched it....like I said UBER-CLEAN......Oh yeah it has a new exhuast and brakes too but that doesn't really have much to do with the clutch....Anyway I really dunno what to do, my ultimate would be Turbo it....Then I would need a H/Duty clutch but that wont happen for a while yet so maybe it's better to go for a stockie for now...How long does a stock clutch last in one of these baby's.....Of course if you ride it, it will die a fast and painful life but I don't drive like that so it's all good....Thank's people.. |
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Posted
Saturday, Dec 30th 4:58pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 277
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I used to get all my stuff from Auto Deutsche in Bayswater before they became a SsangYong dealer and stopped dealing parts. Euro Car Parts Euro Car Parts in Campbellfield became the supplier they referred to. There's Imparts in Abbotsford and I've heard that Hanvic South Yarra have great prices, but I think you need a reseller number to buy from them. |
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Posted
Sunday, Dec 31st 5:41am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 51
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about 400,000k's if you treat it with respect and not all of us can do that
I suggest you pay the little extra and get a heavey duty while you have the engine down, and lets face it an extra $200 bucks now is going to save you $1500 in a year or so time when you decide to turbo... |
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Posted
Monday, Jan 1st 3:48pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 22
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That is so true, ($1500 turbo comment) I have a feeling that it isnt the clutch thats gone though, weve been looking, thinking, looking more and reasearching and we (me and my mum's other half...BMW lover also has a E32 750il) think there may be a broken link somewhere in-between the pedal and gearbox or somthing, as my pedal doesn't stay down it springs all the way to the top of its travel till it stop's pretty much in my lap...lol....but i only have 1-2inches of clutch right at the bottom of the pedal travel.....It wont engage while engine is going but it does when its off, I can start it in gear and the hubs turn ( its on stands with no wheels at the moment so i can) lol....so tommorow is a day a investigation...(Tuesday)....If anyone has any insight please let me know.......It would be greatly appreciated and most helpful..
Matt |
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Posted
Tuesday, Jan 2nd 1:03am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 278
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I just went through this, my clutch eye bolt snapped when I was coming home last week. If you look up at where the slave cylinder comes in through the firewall there will be nothing attached to it, with a broken off bolt there. It's Number 11 in this picture. I had one so I can't help you with the price, but I'm sure BMW wouldn't charge more than $10 for it. Part number 10 are plastic bushings and probably should be replaced as well. I didn't bother because I didn't have any here.
To remove it from the clutch pedal you'll need a 19mm and 17mm spanners. The stub in the clutch cylinder should come out pretty easily once you loosen the lock nut. I think you'll need an 11mm open end on the cylinder and a 12mm on the locknut.
The Haynes manual says the final adjustment of it should be about 29 cm from the back of the flat part to the floor with the padding and carpet pulled back, but that would've made it really high so I just adjusted it even with the brake pedal.
[Edit]
I just noticed that realoem lists Number 11 as a "piston rod" and a price of US$46! It really is just a length of threaded rod with an eye on one end. If you can't find one cheap you could probably get your's welded up, depending on where it broke (mine broke right where the rod joins the eye) and have a stronger item than stock. |
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Posted
Tuesday, Jan 2nd 1:55am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 25
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Thanks heaps dude, that's EXACTLY what has happened to mine, it snapped of where the eye bolt attaches to the pedal....I'm going to fix it today and make my baby drivable!!!!!!!!! Thanks again man you saved me $500 for a new clutch...lol |
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Posted
Tuesday, Jan 2nd 2:43am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 279
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I guess $50 is better than $500.  |
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Posted
Tuesday, Jan 2nd 10:06am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 27
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I paid $25 for the whole cylinder, and it was just the eye bolt that connects to the pedal like you said......now my lil bimmer drives, and does she ever....Took 10 minutes to change it and we have a car that goes...lol...buuuut this also not produced but showed another problem,
My front control arm bushes are gone, and also there's a bit of a click comming from the tailshaft tunnel, I really think it is comming from the middle universal joint.... Anyonme had this problem, it sounds like there's somthing touching the tailshaft.....when I speed up the noise get faster, when I slow it slows too....I looked every where under the car and there is nothing touching the tailshaft or anything??? This makes my think Uni joint... |
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Posted
Tuesday, Jan 2nd 11:08am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 51
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sounds like the diff mate... it could be on its way to heaven |
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Posted
Tuesday, Jan 2nd 11:44am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 30
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Na dude, I dont think its the diff, It comes from the center of the tunnel, An when I got under the car I held the first and second half of the tailshaft and moved it opposite ways and it made a clicky sorta sound in the centre bearing/unijoint....You can also feel it in the tailshaft. |
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Posted
Tuesday, Jan 2nd 3:50pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 129
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Mine used to do that, well, it was less of a click and more like a air hammer! I replaced the big coupling on it and it is nice and quiet now. The replacement bush/coupling is different depending on which year, so make sure when you order a new one! |
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Posted
Wednesday, Jan 3rd 7:32am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 32
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Your talking about the Middle bush/coupling in the tail shaft right?? I really think thats where my noise is comming from....but still a little unsure. |
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Posted
Wednesday, Jan 3rd 8:54am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 49
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once upon a time i had a clicking noise, it was a loose bolt on the gearbox flange, check if u hav the same problem.
one time that middle bush of mine completely shreded itself, which made a loud banging noise on my floor. but i got that fixed and nows its quiet. |
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Posted
Wednesday, Jan 3rd 1:11pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 130
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Yes, it's the middle one. Once it's worn it makes all sorts of horrible noises! |
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Posted
Wednesday, Jan 3rd 1:30pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 34
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I've just had a little bit of insight, The speedo cable is loose in the hole in the gearbox, To explane the noise better is sounds like a CV joint in a FWD car....Could it be possible that this cable has freyed and it's just not spinning right?? Tommorow I'm going to get under her and tighten every bolt I can see and see if that makes a difference.....Otherwise I think I'm going to have to look at the middle bush/bearing a little more in depth....I wish I could post a recording of the noise so you good folk could have a listen for yourselves and see if you know whats going on.....DAMN |
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Posted
Wednesday, Jan 3rd 4:03pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 280
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I also had the same problem that ArnZ mentioned. I was driving along and heard something bounce up and down under my car and then started to get a really bad click/pound near the gearshift. When I was able to check it out I found that the bouncing sound was one of the bolts coming out of the gearbox flange. I'd check that first. |
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Posted
Thursday, Jan 4th 9:24am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 38
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I just fixed the 'click-click' problem......Hahaha I feel like a bit of a dick though.....
my wheels bolts where too long and they where hitting the back of my brakes!!!! I fixed it and there is no problem with my brakes(checked) and my mysterious noise have disappeard!!!! YAY!!!! My car just keeps getting better everyday!!! I LOVE BMW!!!! |
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