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Posted
Monday, May 14th 9:38pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 160
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Anybody ever install these? How difficult is the installation? what are the steps? how much difference does it make in performace? right now i want to stiffen up the rear more as it is overly stiff in the front. Hoping this will do the trick as my rubber bushings are beyond shot.
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Posted
Tuesday, May 15th 11:49am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 219
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As far as I know you need a press as they are a bit*h to get in and out, I'm pretty sure you can also buy a replacement arm with them istalled already, you can in some cases (Front's I know you can but rears unsure???) you can get away with a vice and a few larger size socket's........ |
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Posted
Tuesday, May 15th 5:22pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 346
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I believe the urethane bushings for the rear trailing arms are two pieces, one piece goes into each side. Depends on manufacturer though and I'm not really up on it so I could be totally wrong. Getting the old ones out is still a bitch though. |
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Posted
Tuesday, May 15th 5:52pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 161
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-Urethane-Bushings-E21-320i-323-E30-318is-325-325e_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ42609QQihZ010QQitemZ200108812230QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
those are what i bought,(yet to arrive) and yea they come in two pieces, does that make them easier to install?
How many hours shop time would a mechanic take for this? Does splitting them into two make it easier?
the ones in there right now are beyond shot, but yea if you normaly have to press them in, i will not look forward to taking them out 
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Posted
Tuesday, May 15th 9:04pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 169
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I fitted mine no problems.
I slid an m10 threaded bar through one side, before it went through the other mount I slid on 2 large penny washers 2 lengths of 1/2" tube and 2 nuts. I then wound the nuts down the threaded bar until the bar was through the second bush. I then wound the nuts in different directions until one mount was pushed out.
I then wound the nuts back together until I could fit a plate with a small hole in the middle over the aperture for the removed bush.
I then wound the nuts out again until the second bush fell out.
To fit the new bushes I just reversed the process putting the nuts on the outside and pulling the bushes inward.
As far as performance goes It is very hard for me to judge because at the same time I fitted my Leda adjustable shochs and lowering springs.
I would say that it does feel tighter put wether this is the suspension or the bushes I cant say. |
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Posted
Wednesday, May 16th 1:53am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 162
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davethedog thanks for the instructions, id like to clear them up a bit though as i dont think i understood correctly
Slide an m10 threaded bar through one side,
whats an m10 bar?
i think once i know that the rest should fall into place
thanks!
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Posted
Wednesday, May 16th 8:20am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 559
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I think he is referring to m10 as the diameter of the threaded bar (or also a long bolt?). You'll find out when you go to a local Home Depot/Lowes or what have you. |
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Posted
Thursday, May 17th 6:20am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 211
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Can you share with us the diamentions when you get the bushes?
Cheers
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Posted
Thursday, May 17th 3:55pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 141
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I've got some Paul Gray "grunt" bushings in my e28 and they do make a big difference. The only downside is that they squeak like crazy if they're not kept clean and lubed.
Mine goes to the local shop at least once a year to have them taken out, cleaned, lubed and reinstalled. They work cheap, otherwise I'd do it myself 
I've spoken with several others experiencing the same issues but like me, they agree the benefits outweigh the negatives. |
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Posted
Thursday, May 17th 7:11pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 214
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hmmm .... I don't think I can afford (time wise) to have the rear removed and lubed on a yearly basis. |
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Posted
Friday, May 18th 3:06am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 163
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will i have to lube mine? what lube should i use?
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Posted
Friday, May 18th 9:51am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 184
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a good silicone based lube is all you need. usually come with bushes if you buy them new. |
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Posted
Friday, May 18th 9:40pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 170
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This is what I did:
Sorry for the dodgy drawing but I did it quick in my dinner time.
My bush's came with silicon grease.
They pushed out really easy and sliped back in no probs. |
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Posted
Friday, May 18th 10:59pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 142
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Any silicone lube will work.
My driveway is 1/3 of a mile long, gravel and gets dusty during the summer. If I didn't drive on dirt roads as much as I do, I doubt the bushings would get quite as dirty.
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Posted
Thursday, Jul 12th 1:55pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 234
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I don't suppose u can crawl underneath your car and spray some sort of lubricant instead of removing the whole trailing arm? |
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Posted
Thursday, Jul 12th 4:26pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 232
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no because you need to lube between contact surfaces. If you dont use lube, it will tear out the bush. If you use the wrong type, it will break down the rubber and render it useless too.
Silicone based lubricant is about one of the only things that doesnt have a negative effect on rubber/urethane. |
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Posted
Thursday, Jul 12th 7:19pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 235
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bummer.......i was really quite keen to fit PU bushes to the rear trailing arms and the front control arms..... |
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