|
Posted
Friday, Jun 20th 8:57am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 12
|
i am doing my head finally tomorrow. and i just saw on the paper that came with my gasket set that i have to angle torque my head bolts to 30 to 36 degrees. it has two angle torque numbers though, 20 to 30 and then the 30 to 36. and it says there is a 15 min relaxation time and a warm up time of 25 minutes at 80C. also with the kit i got a bunch of metal and brass washers, would the brass ones be for the fuel injection lines? what are the other ones for? anyone have any other suggestions for someone doing this for the first time. i took everything apart like 6 months ago but i labeled everything, so i should be ok putting stuff back together.
thanks guys,
chad |
 |
|
|
Posted
Friday, Jun 20th 7:51pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 36
|
Hello Chad,
You can use a paper/cardboard protractor to supplement your torque wrench. All you would need to do is to use a real protractor to mark off the angle that you need on the cardboard (manila folders work best). Cut a hole out for the socket and extension first then place the needed angle on that.
Another method is to measure the number of clicks your torque wrench needs to go through 360 degrees of movement. Then just divide the clicks by the number of degrees you need. Torque the nut to the final torque, move the handle of the wrench back the number of clicks for the degree setting then move the wrench forward to the starting point. |
|
|
|
Posted
Saturday, Jun 21st 7:13am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 10
|
Excellent instrutions Ray,
Chad, could the washers Be copper? and the others be large aluminum? Jeff |
|
|
|
Posted
Saturday, Jun 21st 7:58am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 13
|
ya that's what the washers look like, what are they for?
and just so i have this straight. i torque down the head in the three stages that my haynes manual has torque specs for, then on my last stage i torque it, back it off 30 degrees and then torque it again?
thanks, sorry if i seem a little slow but i wanna do this right the first time. |
|
|
|
Posted
Saturday, Jun 21st 8:33am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 40
|
Chad, on the last stage you leave your torque wrench at the last torque setting you used and "push" it forward the added degrees. Do not loosen and then re-torque. That would be bad  |
|
|
|
Posted
Saturday, Jun 21st 12:00pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 14
|
so i torque it to spec, then go another 30 degrees? |
|
|
|
Posted
Saturday, Jun 21st 3:18pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 69
|
No, you just torque to spec in three stages.
If the stage specifies an amount of torque, you need to configure your torque wrench to the appropriate value to apply the correct torque.
You do each stage in the appropriate order (from center to extremities, this is very important).
If a stage is specified by an amount of degrees, then you just have to turn the wrench so many degrees to complete the stage. Say, if you have to add 30deg, you put the wrench on the head bolt and turn it 30deg. That's all. |
|
|
|
Posted
Saturday, Jun 21st 8:43pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 45
|
Instructions say:
1st stage 45#
2nd stage 55#
3rd stage 35*
1st stage
Get torquer and tighten head bolts in applicable order to specified torque (my made-up one is 45#)
2nd stage
Get torquer and tighten all head bolts in applicable order to specified torque of 55# (again I mad that up, follow your instructions)
Last round, grab a breaker bar or large craftsman socket wrench with a pipe style extension on the handle (gotta love free replacements). Grab the socket size for your head bolts and any appropriate extension. Place the wrench on the bolt so that the wrench is strait to the side of you (like this ----o). Lay a protractor on the head so the zero degree is next to the head of the bolt and the maximum degree is clockwise in rotation. Now you should have the wrench on the bolt with a protractor on the head with the 0* at the head bolt being tightened and the increasing degrees are in the direction to tighten the bolts and the wrench will pass over them while doing so. Turn the wrench to the specified number of degrees. Repeat this to the same amount of degrees in the correct rotation for all of the bolts.
|
|
|
|
Posted
Sunday, Jun 22nd 1:45am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 42
|
You had better stick to WUR work.
Ok say I do use the "regular" (insert brand name here) ratcheting wrench instead of the torque wrench. And I move the wrench from the start position to the final degree setting. What is the torque going to be at?
Seriously, the manual states specifically to use the torque wrench at X ft/lbs for the added X degree setting. Not switch over to your regualr socket wrench, much lesws a "Breaker bar" (hmm, I wonder why they are called that) and lean on it till you get there. Especially not with a pipe added to the end of the thing.
If I remember the way levers work, and the added torque they place on objects to move them, you can put a five foot, hell even a two foot for practical purposes, long pipe on the end of your breaker bar and have torque to the Nth power there. You were worried about 105 ft/lbs used as the example? How much is that cheater bar going to give you huh? You do know why it is called a "cheater" bar don't you. Just for S&G here is the explanation: Because the added length of the bar multiplies your torque.
You are wrong again. |
|
|
|
Posted
Sunday, Jun 22nd 2:39am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 15
|
my haynes manual doesnt say anything about angle torquing, should i just stick with the 3 stage torquing? i think i understand the angle torquing now, but i dont know whether to go by my haynes manual, or the little slip of paper that came with my head gasket set. |
|
|
|
Posted
Sunday, Jun 22nd 3:22am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 47
|
Only reason to use a cheater or breaker would be to make it easier to turn, not to go past the * specified.
The torque put on a bolt is directly proportional to the amount of turns given. If it says to turn more after you've passed a torque, it's not at that torque anymore. |
|
|
|
Posted
Sunday, Jun 22nd 6:33am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 6
|
I just picked up a torque angle measuring device at the Import carlise car show for $15.00. That was for a new KD tools unit. When I go back for summer carlise, I can pick up some for anybody that wants one(if he still has them). These fit in between your rachet and socket, has a stop, pointer and protractor on them. I will be going back in July so will check on them then. They normally sold for about $35.00. He had them for about the last three shows, so I doubt if he got rid of too many.
Tony |
|
|
|
Posted
Sunday, Jun 22nd 9:14am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 44
|
Chad,
If you are still nervous on what to do with regards to your torque here is the easiest method by far. Met up with a M30(exBMW tech) builder today (for advice on my M106 turbo motor) and he has done this for the past 10 yrs.
An m30 is basically an M10 but with two more cylinders.
1st stage 35 ft/lbs
2nd stage 45 ft/lbs
3rd stage 65 ft/lbs
And this is it no warming up, time wait, no nothing. Just make sure you have the head gasket on correctly and the bolt holes are super clean. Do not oil the bolts as they will give a false torque reading. This gentlemen, is the final word. |
|
|
|
Posted
Sunday, Jun 22nd 11:48am [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 16
|
thanks ray that makes it a hell of a lot easier. nobody i know here has even heard of angle torquing. |
|
|
|
Posted
Sunday, Jun 22nd 11:53pm [Edit] [Quote] [IMS] [View car] |
Post nr. 51
|
Yes, thanx ray. |
|
|
